Succinic acid is one of the latest active ingredients to appear to improve the health of our skin. Also known as butanedioic acid, this multifunctional compound is found naturally in sugarcane and amber.
In fact, we have discovered that succinic acid offers a wide range of benefits that help achieve glowing skin. It is particularly effective against cystic acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties. But that's not all - its antioxidant properties, as well as its ability to promote cell turnover, protect the skin against damage caused by free radicals and oxidative stress. Traditionally extracted by distillation of amber, today it is mainly produced by fermentation, using bacteria or yeast to transform sugars into succinic acid. In this article, we will explore in depth what succinic acid is, how it is made, what its multiple benefits are for the skin, and the precautions to take when using it.
What is succinic acid?
Natural origin and chemical structure
Historically, succinic acid was first extracted from succin or Baltic amber, which explains its name derived from the Latin term "succinum" meaning amber. This discovery dates back to the 19th century, marking the beginning of its use by humans. Over the centuries, its applications have diversified considerably, moving from pharmacology to modern cosmetics.
Chemically, succinic acid (C₄H₆O₄) is a dicarboxylic acid which appears in the form of colorless crystals that are very soluble in water. Its molecular structure includes four carbon atoms, six hydrogen atoms and four oxygen atoms. Its melting point is 185°C, and if we continue to heat it up to 235°C, it transforms into succinic anhydride which volatilizes immediately.
Indeed, this acid is naturally present in many living organisms. It is found in wild lettuce, greater celandine, white clover, but also in certain foods such as rhubarb, lemon and broccoli. This molecule plays a fundamental role in cellular metabolism, particularly in the Krebs cycle which takes place in the mitochondria, providing the energy necessary for the functioning of the body.
Difference from other cosmetic acids
Succinic acid clearly stands out from other cosmetic acids due to its exceptional mildness. Unlike salicylic acid, which is often too harsh for sensitive skin, succinic acid is non-irritating and generally does not cause redness or irritation. Plus, it doesn't dry out the skin like other exfoliating acids do.
Another notable difference is that succinic acid acts more like a moisturizing agent as an exfoliant. Its structure is close to the lipids present in the epidermis, which allows it to maintain healthy hydration levels in the skin. Therefore, it leaves the skin soft and supple rather than tight and flaky after use.
An added benefit is that succinic acid is not photosensitizing, unlike salicylic acid which makes the skin more vulnerable to UV rays. This particularity allows its use both in morning and evening routines.
Why it’s sparking new interest
The recent popularity of succinic acid in the cosmetics industry can be explained by several factors. First of all, consumers are now looking for ingredients that are both effective and gentle, and succinic acid perfectly meets this demand.
Then, its versatility is remarkable. It acts simultaneously as an antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, sebum regulator and antioxidant agent. This multifunctionality makes it a valuable ingredient for modern cosmetic formulations that aim to simplify skincare routines.
Furthermore, growing environmental concerns are encouraging the adoption of more sustainable production methods. Today, succinic acid is mainly obtained by biosynthetic fermentation, using bacteria or yeast to transform sugars or starches. This method, more environmentally friendly than traditional extraction or petrochemical synthesis, meets the expectations of consumers concerned about the ecological impact of their cosmetic products.
In addition, succinic acid has been recognized as safe for years and is even authorized by Ecocert when it comes from 100% renewable plant-based raw materials, which reinforces its appeal in the current context of clean and natural beauty.
How is succinic acid made?
Traditional method: amber distillation
The manufacture of succinic acid dates back centuries, when Dr. Agricola in Germany first obtained it by distillation of amber. This traditional method involves placing the amber in a retort and applying gentle heat. Then, the acid sublimates into concrete form in the neck of the retort. During this process, you must avoid pushing the distillation too far so as not to allow the oil to pass through. Once the operation is completed, the salt is allowed to drain on gray paper before being purified by repeated dissolutions and crystallizations. However, this method turns out to be expensive and not very efficient for large-scale production.
Modern method: biosynthetic fermentation
Nowadays, production methods have modernized considerably. Mainly, succinic acid is obtained by fermentation, where bacteria or yeast transform sugars or starches. This process uses various microorganisms such as Actinobacillus succinogenes, Mannheimia succiniciproducens, as well as modified strains ofEscherichia coli. Furthermore, in 2008, a first industrial pilot installed near Reims succeeded in producing succinic acid from sugars and lignocellulosic residues fermented by E.coli in an atmosphere enriched with CO₂. World production is around 30,000 tonnes per year. A recent advance in this area is the use of yeasts as Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which have better tolerance to low pH.
Environmental benefits of natural production
The biotechnology approach to producing succinic acid offers significant environmental benefits. Indeed, the yeast-based process consumes less energy and does not produce by-products like salts, unlike alternative technologies such as bacterial fermentation. Additionally, this fermentation process also consumes CO₂, which could contribute to the reduction of carbon emissions. Therefore, compared to traditional di-acids, the environmental footprint of bio-based succinic acid is significantly better. Furthermore, using this method allows industries to reduce their dependence on fossil fuels and contribute to a more circular economy. Ultimately, due to growing demand and increased environmental concern, biosynthetic fermentation methods are gaining popularity, providing more sustainable alternatives for the cosmetic industry.
What are the benefits of succinic acid?
Action against acne and blemishes
The antimicrobial properties of succinic acid make it a powerful ally against acne. At concentrations of just 0.1%, it inhibits the growth of bacteria like Cutibacterium acnes over 99.9%. By disrupting bacterial cell membranes, it causes their destruction and considerably reduces their presence on the skin. Furthermore, its anti-inflammatory properties reduce redness and swelling, particularly for cystic acne.
Hydration and strengthening of the skin barrier
Thanks to its structure similar to the skin's natural lipids, succinic acid provides exceptional hydration. It strengthens the skin barrier, seals in hydration and soothes inflammation while improving elasticity. In addition, it is ideal for sensitive skin because it does not irritate the epidermis.
Antioxidant and anti-aging effect
The antioxidant properties of succinic acid protect the skin against free radicals responsible for premature aging. Thus, it slows down the appearance of signs of aging such as fine lines and stains. Studies suggest that it also inhibits the breakdown of collagen, preserving skin firmness and elasticity.
Sebum regulation
Succinic acid remarkably balances sebum production without drying out the skin. By limiting excess sebum, it prevents clogged pores and reduces the risk of breakouts. This sebum-regulating action makes it an ideal ingredient for oily, combination or acne-prone skin.
Gentle exfoliation for an even complexion
Finally, succinic acid provides delicate exfoliation that removes dead cells without causing irritation. This gentle keratolytic action promotes cell renewal and visibly improves the texture and uniformity of the complexion. Unlike other more aggressive acids, it exfoliates without dehydrating or sensitizing the skin.
Are there any precautions to take?
Risk of irritation on sensitive skin
Although succinic acid is generally well tolerated, it may not be suitable for everyone, especially people with very sensitive skin. Indeed, slight irritation or redness may occur, especially during excessive use. However, it remains less irritating than salicylic acid and therefore constitutes an interesting alternative for reactive skin.
Possible side effects if abused
At high concentrations or with prolonged use, succinic acid can cause some discomfort. Among these, we mainly note skin dryness, flaking or irritation. In addition, temporary redness and papules may appear, as well as skin sensitivity lasting 24 to 48 hours. Furthermore, the potential interaction with other cosmetic ingredients, including other acids such as salicylic acid, could increase irritation.
Directions for use to avoid photosensitivity
Unlike salicylic acid which is photosensitizing, succinic acid does not make the skin more vulnerable to UV rays. It can therefore be used in summer without fear. However, before incorporating a product containing this active ingredient into your routine, perform a skin test on a small area. Apply a minimal amount and monitor for any reactions for 24 to 48 hours. Also avoid contact with sensitive areas such as the eye area and mucous membranes. If you experience an adverse reaction, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Conclusion
Succinic acid therefore represents a real revolution in the field of skin care. This versatile active ingredient, formerly extracted from amber, today stands out for its environmentally friendly biosynthetic production. Its exceptional softness makes it a valuable ally for all skin types, particularly the most sensitive which do not tolerate traditional acids.
Unlike other acids commonly used in cosmetics, succinic acid offers a perfect balance between effectiveness and skin tolerance. Its antimicrobial properties effectively fight acne without causing irritation. Furthermore, its moisturizing action strengthens the skin barrier rather than weakening it.
The multiple benefits of this active ingredient certainly explain its growing success. Not only does it regulate sebum production and fight imperfections, but it also protects against free radicals thanks to its antioxidant properties. Without forgetting its gentle exfoliation which visibly improves the texture and evenness of the complexion.
Although generally well tolerated, some precautions are still necessary. A prior skin test remains recommended, especially for very sensitive skin. However, unlike other active ingredients, succinic acid does not cause photosensitivity, which allows its use all year round.
Faced with the numerous active ingredients available on the market, succinic acid is positioned as a gentle and effective alternative, perfectly meeting the current expectations of consumers looking for products that are both efficient and respectful of the skin and the environment.
